KC On The Go

The last few years I’ve had a growing desire to visit Ireland. I’m not quite sure where this came from to be honest because up until that point it wasn’t a destination at the forefront of my mind. Prague, yes, Barcelona, definitely but I didn’t think of Dublin. I know, it’s a stunning, lush, cultured country, there’s absolutely no logic to my thinking – you’re just going to have to humor me here. More recently I had my eye on it, checking out flights, researching the city, giving friends who had been there the third degree. It’s so easily accessible from the Northeast US and a quick flight at that. Seemed like a perfect destination for the birthday getaway I was planning to take.

A few weeks ago, some friends and I finally took our little weekend jaunt to the Emerald Isle for four and a half amazing days in Dublin. We had the BEST time! Since I’ve been back, I can’t stop yammering on to everyone I know that they should immediately stop what they’re doing and book a trip to Dublin. I can’t think of a single person I know who would not love it. What a fun city! Everything is so beautiful and everyone is so friendly…and helpful. City Centre is filled with the most charming little cobblestone alleys. And who knew Ireland was so fond of its casinos?

Everyone’s been asking what my favorite part was. It’s so tough to choose just one thing, but at the risk of sounding schmaltzy, I’d have to first and foremost choose the company I was with. Anyone who’s traveled with others knows it can be tricky business. Not everyone is travel compatible thus throwing relationships of all sorts into uncertainty – I know, it’s happened to me. Luckily for me, my traveling companions all like to do the same things as me – eat, drink, shop, walk and repeat. Not to worry though, I have plenty of great things to share with you. I can’t NOT share some of my favorites so I’ve made a little list of things for you to put on YOUR list when you go to Dublin.      

HAVE A PINT…OR SEVERAL

Even for someone who’s trying to stay away from beer (yep, that’s me, don’t judge), you can’t go to Dublin and not partake in a frothy brew or two. City Centre makes it quite easy to while the hours away on a good ol’Irish pub crawl. The streets are lined with any kind of pub you’re in the mood for – dives, upscale, ones with traditional Irish music, the list goes on.

Whether you decide to go to the brewery or stick to the pubs, you can’t not try the locals – Guinness and it’s lager sister Harp. Now, I’m not a fan of Guinness in the States but I’m happy to report that the word on the street is true – Guinness is infinitely better from the source. It’s a smooth, complex and highly drinkable beverage. I wouldn’t want you to leave Dublin filled with regret and longing, so I highly recommend trying it at least once.

KNOCK BACK A LITTLE WHISKEY WITH AN “E”

While we’re on the subject of drinking, there’s another beverage Ireland is known for. Again, Irish Whiskey isn’t my thing. I’m a Scotch girl (sorry, Ireland). Having said that, when I travel I like to experience the local specialties and in Ireland, whiskey is one of them. You can do a tour of the Jameson Distillery. But, Jameson isn’t the only show in town. You have your pick of fine tipples from distilleries all over the country, so why not try them all? A tasting is always a fun day activity and a great way to discover new favourites, as well as what to avoid.

In Dublin, there’s a new kid on the block – Teeling which proved to be quite tasty as a mixer in my Manhattans. Teeling is the first new distillery to open in Dublin in 125 years. They offer a distillery tour and tasting afterward. They also have a cafe on the premises – how about a little lunch with your whiskey?

ENJOY A TRADITIONAL IRISH MEAL

We all know the hearty staples of Irish cuisine. You’ll need to sit down to a nice, warm meal if the weather is anything like we experienced – rainy, chilly, windy. I’m talking pot pie, comforting stews, chunky chips that are crisp on the outside and squishy on the inside – oh man, I’m making myself hungry just thinking of it all.

You can get all of these delights at a local favorite, Gallagher’s Boxty House. It’s quite a hopping spot so depending on what time you get there, you’re likely in for a wait. It goes fast though and the experience and food are well worth it. We all tried the various stews on the menu and believe it or not, the vegetarian was the winner of the night. Loaded with fresh veg, chickpeas, coconut milk and coriander, it was a delicious explosion of flavor. In lieu of chips we tried their specialty Boxty fries which were seasoned to perfection. The vegetables were mild with the creamiest Irish butter flavor. I’ll definitely go again when I make my way back to Dublin.

VISIT A CHURCH

Church isn’t only for Sundays in Dublin. With all the historic houses of worship in this country, you’d be remiss not to visit at least one, if only for the breathtaking architecture. In Dublin alone, there’s St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Christ Church Cathedral, St. Audeon’s, just to name a few. The latter has the distinction of being the only medieval parish in Dublin to still have all their original features. How cool is that?!

We opted to tour the most famous of the bunch, Christ Church and it’s crypt. In existence for nearly 1,000 years, the structure is quite impressive both outside and in. Though originally built in the medieval period, it was restored in Victorian times so the interior is very much a combination of the two styles of design. They offer a guided tour but if you opt for the self-guided, you’re free to meander at your own pace and bask in the beauty.  

BUY AN AUTHENTIC LAMB’S WOOL SWEATER

Amongst the things Ireland is known for are those thick, handmade lamb’s wool sweaters. The locals are very proud of these, as they should be. They really are beautiful and come in a variety of styles and colours to represent the natural colours of the Irish countryside. And, it’s not just sweaters! It’s capes and scarves and hats, oh my! A bonus is that they may come in handy on a chilly, windy day. I broke out my scarf almost immediately. Given these 40-50 degree temperatures we’ve had in New York lately, it’s gotten plenty of use already. Now that’s a good purchase.

A good local brand is Aran. It’s always a nice thing to support the local economy and celebrate craftsmanship at the same time. Aran takes its name from the Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland. Each sweater has its own complex stitch pattern and each pattern its own meaning. Though the off-white is the traditional colour as it’s not dyed, the hues are so beautiful you’ll want one of each color!

GO TO JAIL

Dublin is home to former prison, Kilmainham Gaol. Built in 1796, many of the Irish revolutionaries involved in the Easter Rising of 1916 were imprisoned and executed in Kilmainham. Notorious for their poor conditions, particularly for the women inmates, the jail was decommissioned by the Irish Free State in 1924. In 1971 it reopened as the museum honouring the history of Irish nationalism that stands today. The ghosts of those executed on the grounds forever haunting the halls.

The tour begins in the jail’s chapel, proceeds through cold, dank stone halls housing rows of cells then into the main hall, a large oval room surrounded by cells. Our walk through the jail was a good history lesson. It made me realize that my knowledge of Irish history and the country’s fight for independence is sorely lacking. On a lighter note, both the Daniel Day Lewis movie In the Name of the Father and the cinematic masterpiece Paddington 2 were filmed there. Hey, what can I say, I love that bear!

STROLL ACROSS THE HA’PENNY BRIDGE

Dublin is a great walking city! Everything in City Centre is fairly compact and easily accessible by foot. Right smack dab in the middle of it all is the Ha’Penny Bridge so you’d have to try hard to avoid it. Why would you want to avoid it though, it’s old, it’s historic, it’s a landmark?! The cast iron structure is for pedestrians only and connects the north and south end of the city over the River Liffey.  

When you walk across, notice the detailing, it’s beautiful in its simplicity and it still has it’s love locks. In case you were wondering, the name comes from the half a penny toll pedestrians were expected to pay when the bridge first opened about 200 years ago. Which should make crossing it for free that much more satisfying. And she’s very popular, around 30,000 people cross each day.

TAKE A DETOUR THROUGH GEORGE’S STREET ARCADE

While you’re getting those steps in, take a little detour for a shopping excursion. George’s Street Arcade, set in a beautiful Victorian building, is a fun option. Before you get caught up in fantasies of your lost youth spent playing video games, it’s not that kind of arcade. The covered market is a unique little nugget in the city filled with kitschy shops, vintage clothing, snacks and stands with souvenirs.

With over 40 independent retailers setting up shop in George’s Street Arcade, it attracts locals and tourists alike. Making the compact space abuzz with energy. It reminds me a tiny bit of a much, much, much smaller Portobello Road Market in London. I know, I know – I’m really selling this place now. Seriously though, it is a cool spot with fun shops to hit on your travels. And it’s covered – so the rain can’t touch you!

GET YOUR SEAFOOD ON

When you think of things that are authentically Irish, fish doesn’t immediately leap to mind. At least not to me. I’m not quite sure why though because it is an island after all. So you’d have to believe that the seafood is fresh and very recently caught, right? Well, our eyes were opened to all the wonderful seafood possibilities.

Now we had some amazing meals in Ireland, one of them being our very first dinner. We were very diligent in our research and our hard work and dedication paid off big time when we found Klaw. It’s a little crabshack plopped right in the heart of City Centre and it’s full of charm. I mean, anyplace with the hashtag #shucknsuck is a-okay in my book. There are about 5 or 6 wooden tables and a bar for seating against the wall, a small aisle for the servers to pass through on their way to the open kitchen and the menu is scrawled on a chalkboard on one wall. And I haven’t even gotten to the food yet. We ordered the full gamut of oysters to start, so fresh and perfectly seasoned. For our main, we all got the mussels and prawns in an amazing broth with potatoes and toasted bread. Oh, I wish I were there right now.

There’s so much more to love about Dublin, I really can’t recommend it highly enough. In fact, I’m already mulling over my next blog post about Dublin because one certainly isn’t enough. Where have you gone that took you by surprise in the best possible way? I’d love to hear about it! And, as always, if you have any Dublin recommendations that I’ve missed, please pass them along.

Until next time – cheers!