KC On The Go

What’s the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Italy? Sure, it could be the stunning landscape or the deep history of art or the magnificent ancient architecture but I’d bet that it’s the food and wine. What says Italy better than a table full of people sitting down for a long meal together? That’s more than just food, that’s a shared experience, it’s a way of life. When I started planning my Tuscan vacation, my mind immediately started daydreaming about idling the days away in a piazza with a nice glass of Italian wine and a plate of fresh, homemade pasta. Ah, the good life.

This time last year, I was just returning home from said vacation, an amazing week in Italy with my mom, belly full and memories of the decadent meals fresh in my mind. And boy were they decadent! By the time we reached our last day, we could barely eat another bite and both returned home quite certain we’d each gained about 10 pounds. But, I’m getting ahead of myself, let’s start at the beginning…

My personal travel m.o. is that the moment I reach the airport, I am in vacation mode. That means that anything goes. A cocktail at 9 in the morning – yes, I think I’ll take two. A pain au chocolat for breakfast even though I’m trying to behave – c’mon, it’s vacation! A cappuccino with actual dairy even though I’m lactose intolerant – how about one every single morning? Hey, you only live once and, thankfully, a face full of hives heals.

If you’ve noticed that everything I’ve mentioned has to do with food and drinks, you’re quite astute. There’s a method to my madness here. Finding establishments that serve quality food and drinks is one of my passions – the feeling is only heightened when on vacation, particularly if the country is known for their culinary delights. It was fortunate for us that when we arrived in our Airbnb, there was a wonderful and very helpful list of restaurant recommendations from our lovely hosts.

As you know, I love sharing my favorites with you. So, if you don’t eat or drink or like to enjoy life you might as well stop reading right now because what follows is a veritable feast for the senses. Meals will be described in depth, appetizing pictures will be shared, you’ll feel like you were there too. Minus, of course, the best part – actually being there and consuming these delights. Without further ado, hold onto your hats as I eat my way through Siena.   

Let’s start with breakfast or prima colazione. To me, nothing highlights the differences between the United States and Europe quite like the way they enjoy breakfast and coffee. Un cafe (espresso) or any caffeinated beverage of choice is meant to be enjoyed leisurely while sitting or standing at the bar of an establishment, there are no “to-go” cups. As someone with a sweet tooth, I love the way Italians do breakfast – pastry! They come in a variety of shapes, sizes and flavors – from donuts to buns to biscuits and tarts. I also love how cappuccino is a morning drink in Italy while espresso can be enjoyed all through the day.  

Perhaps the most well-known breakfast spot in Siena is Naninni. It’s easy to see why given display after display of the most delicious, buttery, fresh baked pastry. My personal choice was brioche di cioccolato with a cappuccino, though an espresso will pair quite well with this too. When I ordered it, I thought I’d get an Italian version of a pain au chocolat. I was so very wrong. Upon biting into it, I was greeted with a tremendous amount of the freshest, creamiest chocolate filling I’ve ever had. Think eclair filling, only chocolate. To say they did not skimp on the chocolate is a definite understatement. Be sure to have a stash of those little Nannini napkins at the ready. It almost seemed too self-indulgent for so early in the morning…almost, but not quite.

Pranzo or lunch, is considered to be the most important meal in Italy. It’s a meal that consists of many courses and is meant to be lingered over. Our first full day in Siena, we found ourselves in Piazza del Campo looking for a place to duck into for the afternoon. After checking Yelp for reviews, we ended up choosing this small, charming restaurant tucked away in the corner of the piazza – Osteria La Mossa. It’s a cozy little spot with the perfect atmosphere; we immediately fell in love. As one does when one is in love, we returned every day thereafter to enjoy our afternoon siesta. Sometimes we sat inside, sometimes out, it didn’t matter really because it was pure bliss either way. I have to say, this spot is definitely up there in the highlights for me.

One particular day stands out amongst the rest. After days of watching charcuterie platter after charcuterie platter being made and served, I set my sights on ordering one before we left Siena. One afternoon as we were sitting at an outside table enjoying that Tuscan sun, I thought, ‘today is the day, I’m not that hungry so it’s a good day to just get a charcuterie platter.’ “Just get a charcuterie platter” – famous last words. It was the most impressive display of cured meat and heavenly spreads that I have ever seen. And the bread! Oh, the bread. I could eat this meal for the rest of my life. 

Now onto cena, or dinner! The street we were staying on had the most beautiful shop with handmade and painted ceramics. We stopped in so many times to buy souvenirs, we made friends with the owner, Valentina. One of the restaurants she recommended also happened to be on our Airbnb host’s list. With two local recommendations, we thought we’d give La Campagnia dei Vinattieri a go.

The restaurant has an unassuming presence on the street with a dimly lit subterranean dining room, the space is so beautiful. Once seated, you’re greeted with a glass of prosecco – always a nice way to start a meal. The meal absolutely lived up to the hype but the highlight for me was the cantucci and vin santo. A tradition native to the Tuscan region, cantucci or almond biscotti are dunked in Vin Santo, a wonderful little dessert wine. This magical combination is enjoyed at the end of nearly every meal, be it at home or in a restaurant so I couldn’t pass up a chance to try it myself. Let me tell you, I love this tradition. So much so that I have 2 bottles of Vin Santo at home just waiting for some fresh baked biscotti to be dunked in.   

While we’re on the subject of dinner, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the dinner we had on our last night in Siena. Enoteca i Terzi was another double recommendation we received. And, it’s got a little history associated with it. On the restaurant’s doorstep are three stones engraved with the three historical subdivisions of the city – Citta, San Martino and Camollia. It boasts a small but impressive menu comprised of quality ingredients. We both had the lamb with a side of greens and the meat was so tender and delicious, it practically melted in the mouth. It was prepared in a simple fashion which just goes to show, sometimes the flash and pomp are just that.

What’s better than walking around Italy on a sunny afternoon with a cone piled high with gelato? The answer to that – not much. But even in Italy, not all gelato is created equal. Fear not, there are still plenty of quality gelaterias to choose from. Make sure you seek out the establishments that have homemade gelato. I found a little place just off the Piazza del Campo to tuck into my cone – Gelateria il Camerlengo. Two flavors, mine were sweet cream and hazelnut, of pure creamy goodness with a wafer stuck in the top. For someone who doesn’t eat dairy often, this truly was a heavenly treat.    

Though picking a “best” among all these delights is extremely tough, I may very well have saved the best for last. Though, technically, it’s not in Siena. I’m not going to let that stop me! One of the highlights for me of the entire trip was our tour of the Antinori winery located just outside of Siena in the Tuscan countryside. This particular winery was recommended to me by an informed friend. On a trip where I mostly planned according to what my mom would enjoy, this was my only request. Fine, it was more like a statement of fact – we’re doing a wine tour.

If we were doing it, I wanted to do it right – a lunch at the winery following our tour and tasting. Set in a conservatory room overlooking the grounds of the winery with the Tuscan hills in the background, our lunch at Rinuccio 1180 truly was an experience. We enjoyed bread dipped in the winery’s homemade olive oil, which may be THE most incredible olive oil I’ve ever had. I once again had lamb paired with a lovely Antinori red and topped it all off with the most decadent, rich chocolate cake. By seeing the before and after photos, you may be able to gather that I enjoyed it. It was certainly a day to remember.    

Hope you enjoyed my food ramblings. Now that you know mine, what are your favorite things to do on vacation? Any foodie spots I should add to my list?

Until next time – cheers!