Have you ever become completely enchanted by a place you’ve never been? To the point where visiting almost becomes an obsession? The neighborhood of Montmartre set on a hilltop in Paris’ 18th Arrondissement, was one such place for me for a long time.
Though my fascination with Paris started at an early age. My fascination with Montmartre came much later. It all started with a charming little film called Amelie. I saw the film in the theatre when it was released and immediately fell in love. I then proceeded to buy it, bring it on vacation with me, watch it whenever it was on TV, you get the idea. I’d imagine myself walking the same lovely streets and living in a charming apartment just like hers. So, you can understand how I could be busting to visit such a place.
My first attempt to visit was on my very first trip to Paris. It was a cold, wet December day and I was not wearing the proper footwear. I made the trip on the metro all the way up to the area with my map in hand and boots soaked through only to wander around for a bit, get lost, then become completely frustrated by the weather and head back to the comforts of my hotel room. Minor setback.
My second attempt was, thankfully, much more successful. I was staying in London for an extended period of time and decided to take the Eurostar down to the continent, as they say, to visit friends. It was a warm, sunny September day and I was on a mission. The moment I stepped foot off the train, I made a beeline to the metro and the blue line all the way to the Blanche stop. Ah, I had arrived and this time I was not going to get lost. Once I was safely ensconced in the very same cafe featured in the film with my cappuccino and the best damn croissant I’ve ever had, only then did I text my friends to say I had arrived. It’s all about priorities.
History
Once an idyllic destination for Parisians to escape the hustle and bustle, Montmartre has always set itself apart from the rest of Paris. In actuality, it started out as a village on the outskirts and was therefore exempt from laws and taxes subject to the rest of the city. In 1860, it was finally welcomed into Paris’ walls somewhat reluctantly on Montmartre’s part. At one point in 1871 they even gained their independence from Paris – for 3 months. Nice try though. One aspect of Montmartre that hasn’t changed in the last several centuries is the association with Christianity. In 250 AD Roman Missionary Saint Denis was martyred on the very same hill where Sacré-Coeur now stands.
During the period in Europe known as Belle Epoque, painters like Monet, Van Gogh, Renoir flocked to Montmartre for inspiration. The peaceful, picturesque land and affordable rent, made it the ideal location to practice art, paving the way for a long line of artists to follow and make Montmartre their home. These days the make up of this one time bohemian artist community is quite different. Like much of Paris, Montmartre is a very expensive neighborhood, it’s now tough to live the Bohemian life there. The charm still remains though.
Things To Do
As the name suggests, Montmartre is the highest point in the city of lights. Walking around is not for the faint of heart or those with issues walking for that matter. Ah but if you’re willing to give it a go, it’s worth it. I love it in the morning, when the neighborhood is just waking up. But then, it is lovely at night with the lights of the city and the energy of the people vibrating through it. It’s steep, narrow, winding cobblestoned streets are bursting with French life around every corner. Hip little shops, cool bars and eateries just setting up for the day, locals popping into cafes for a leisurely coffee. Being in Montmartre it’s easy to see how Paris has gotten the distinction of the most romantic city in the world.
Just outside of Montmartre’s borders in Pigalle is the renowned cabaret Moulin Rouge. That red windmill calls like a beacon as you emerge from the Blanche metro stop. If you’re looking for a night on the town and a show plus a fascinating dose of history, this is the spot. The decor is still very turn of the 19th century and the entertainment just as magical, with the feathered headdresses and bejeweled costumes, if a little less risque.
For a little dessert after the show, you can make your way up Rue Lepic to Café des Deux Moulins – also known as the restaurant Amelie worked in, complete with a Parisian bistro signature zinc counter – for a creme brulee and a digestif. When I went, I walked in, said “bonjour” and was promptly seated at a table and handed a menu – in English. Huh. The inside is certainly charming enough but if the weather is in my favor, I always like to sit at an outdoor table. The neighborhood is so alive, you just want to feel the energy.
Sacré-Coeur
At the peak of the steep hills, lies a reward for your climb – Sacré-Coeur. Well, 2 rewards really, but we’ll get to the second in a bit. The domed basilica sits atop the city proudly watching over it. Built in the Roman-Byzantine style of architecture, construction on the church started in 1875. It was funded by donations, mostly modest in sum, collected throughout France. All that money generously given from the pockets of hard working people did not go to waste. The architecture is absolutely stunning. From the outside, the church is an imposing figure. From the inside, it’s just as magnificent in stature.
Now, on to the second part of our Sacré-Coeur one-two punch – the spectacular sweeping view of the city! Honestly, it’s breathtaking. If you thought Paris was enchanting from street level you should see how sparkly it is from above. If I lived here, I would spend an inordinate amount of time camped out in this spot – Sacré-Coeur above, the rest of Paris below – reading and watching people go by. Can’t you just see Amelie sending Nino Quincampoix up the steps to the observation deck on a chase for clues?
So, now that I’ve been, has it lived up to my expectations? I can confidently say Montmartre has surpassed them. It is by far my favorite neighborhood in Paris. And, it’s so photogenic! I’ve just started a six month course to teach myself French, the end of which will coincide perfectly with when I hope to take my next European vacation. Could another visit to Montmartre be in my future? We’ll have to see. Until next time – cheers!
Adventures of a New Yorker traveling the world.
Adventures of a New Yorker traveling the world.
