After a hiatus, I am back! With so many adventures to share. So let’s get right to them. Have I ever told you that I keep a London checklist? That is to say, for years I’ve been accumulating a list of things to do and see in London. Do any of you do the same? It’s cool, you can admit it. When it comes to the list, anything goes – restaurants, historical attractions, museum exhibitions, parks, even potential day trips from London have made the list. I do the same for other places as well but they’re not nearly as extensive or researched as London – my London love knows no bounds.
A list of this magnitude doesn’t build itself, it takes years of time and dedication. I spend the entire year pouring over every article, every review to find my holy grail of London activities for my next visit. There’s no rest for the weary either – the moment I touch back down in the good ol’ US of A, the search begins again for the following year. Yes, I’ve already added spots and, yes, I did just return a few weeks ago. What can I say, quitters never win.
The list is far too long, so some things just don’t get “crossed off” so to speak right away…and that’s okay because most everything will still be there for next time. Every once in awhile this does not work in my favor – like the time I didn’t buy tickets early enough for the Pink Floyd exhibition at the V&A. What an epic fail – I had been thinking about that one for months. It’s still on my list to this day as a little reminder of what happens when you dilly dally.
When I do manage to make it to one of the chosen ones, there’s a real sense of satisfaction. It took careful planning but I’m happy to say this last trip was a very successful one. Not only did I manage to finally visit long desired locations but I even hit a few of the recent additions. Yep, feeling pretty good about myself. As well I should, I zigzagged that city like a pro piecing my schedule together, much like a game of Tetris, with practiced ease, all the while ticking them off one precious spot at a time.
Enough about me and my skills, let’s talk about London. It’s only right to start with one of the first additions to the list – Regent’s Park. I have to be honest, I don’t really remember why Regent’s made it on the list so early – the 8th entry to be exact – but then, it’s a beautiful green space so let’s let that be reason enough. It’s sooooo beautiful, that taking pictures to share with you completely slipped my mind…oops. Seriously though, it is a lovely park but don’t trust me, see for yourself.
Officially named “The Regent’s Park” it counts itself as one of the Royal Parks of London and it has an interesting history. It was established for the chase (hunting) in Henry VIII’s time. It wasn’t until the mid-1600’s that Regent’s Park as we know it today was designed and named for the Prince Regent. Today it’s home to the London Zoo, an Open Air Theatre, cafes and restaurants and a single road separates it from the next on my list, Primrose Hill…and that amazing view.
Anyone else have that Madness song running through their head now? Primrose Hill is the name of both a village-like district of adorable, colorful homes and the famous Hill contained within it. Both lie just north of Regent’s Park. To get to the main attraction, it’s a bit of a hike. Fear not though, the spectacular expanse of Regent’s Park below and the panoramic views of the London skyline beyond are well worth the effort. Think of it this way, after you’ve had your fill of nature, you can head over to Camden for a cheeky pint as reward for all your hard work.
The next spot is one of my personal favorites. Added to the list years ago, I’ve been trying to go for ages – but, ahem, it’s always completely jam-packed – Gordon’s Wine Bar. Gordon’s proudly lays claim to being London’s first wine bar, established in 1890 and it’s a family affair at this establishment. I bet you can already see the appeal for me – it gets better though.
It’s easy to miss the unassuming entrance tucked behind Embankment station but once through the gate, you’re first greeted with a walkway filled with outdoor seating. Then you make your way inside, down a creaky staircase into a compact room with wood paneled walls covered in newspaper clippings until you finally make your way to the “best seats in the house” – the cave. As the name suggests, they only sell wine, as well as a menu of traditional British grub to pair with your wine, and that’s just as it should be. Especially since the wine list is beyond impressive.
How did I finally get into this coveted bar, you ask? I went as soon as they opened on a weekday. So, yeah, I was the wino drinking at 11am on a Tuesday. I had the entire cave to myself for about a half an hour, it was glorious. Listen, I have no regrets. Gordon’s was always going to draw me in like a beacon – the well-curated wine, the dimly lit, romantic, cave-like setting, the little stone nooks, need I say more? Wait…I’m going to say one more thing – Rudyard Kipling lived as a tenant in the building that houses Gordon’s in the 1890’s. How cool is that?
If you’ve ever wanted an up close and personal gander at the ol’ Gherkin, the next spot is definitely for you. This one is a bit of a rarity for me – I put it on the list, forgot it was on there, booked a reservation about a week and a half in advance after reading articles about the best spots to see London from above, then was looking through my list and saw it on there about halfway down…well, that worked out well. Hopefully, the Sky Garden will forgive me for momentarily forgetting them.
Located at the tippy top of the building affectionately (or maybe not so affectionately as it were) nicknamed the Walkie Talkie, the views above London really are breathtaking. Imagine standing above it all watching as the Thames weaves its way through the center of the city like a snake. The atmosphere is quite nice considering it’s abuzz with people, all in search of the perfect shot. Multi-level with two bars, plenty of seating and, of course, endless views, it’s certainly a nice spot to meet up with people.
Best of all, the view is free, just make sure you reserve your spot. The wine, however, is anything but. I’d say that if you don’t feel like paying the price for the snacks and drinks on offer, this visit can be done in well under the allotted hour you’re given with your reservation. If the fancy strikes you, there’s a restaurant on the upper floor of the Sky Garden, a separate reservation is required for Fenchurch Restaurant and I highly recommend you make them. While I’m happy I did it and the views are outstanding, I don’t know that I’d do this one again unless it were under the following circumstances – during sunset for drinks and/or for dinner at Fenchurch.
The next spot was a brand new addition this year but that’s simply to do with the fact that it only opened in April. It’s the Chihuly Exhibition at the Royal Botanic Gardens in Kew. I read about it on Londonist in April, it looked cool so I added it to the list, on a Wednesday afternoon I thought I’d buy a ticket for the following day and, as they say in Great Britain, “Bob’s your uncle!” (Did I use that properly?) On a sunny Thursday morning I was riding the District Line down to Kew.
I’m a Chihuly newbie so it was a bit of a surprise to discover that he’s not a newbie to London, or internationally for that matter. Currently there are a number of Chihuly Exhibitions on display in 3 countries – impressive! Other than the main draw, the glass sculptures, I didn’t know exactly what to expect from this exhibition. To that end, it was a pleasant discovery to arrive at the gardens and find the sculptures placed throughout rather than everything stuffed into a gallery building. How lovely to stroll through on a bright and beautiful day, stopping every so often to find the most exquisitely colorful hand blown glass pieces, rays of the sun reflecting perfectly off their surfaces. I am sorry I didn’t get to catch Chihuly Nights but, hey, you can only do so much.
It’s always a good time for a mews break. Who doesn’t love a good mews? Hopefully, you all do as much as I because that’s where we’re headed next. Specifically, to Kynance Mews in South Kensington. London really knows how to properly do a mews. What really attracts me is not so much their beauty but the fact that stepping foot in one transports you to a different time and place. Coming from someone who lives in the “city that never sleeps” – there’s nothing more peaceful than a mews. Quite often, you won’t see a single soul in them.
Kynance was added to the list within the last year, give or take. With so many mews to choose from, why was this added? It’s especially alluring aesthetically. There are three arches that serve as entrances to the mews – each Grade II listed on the National Heritage List of London. What that means is that the structures are of enough interest to preserve and protect them. The entire stretch, all 33 residencies, exudes charm – ivy winding its way up the facades. It’s so picturesque, it’s been used in films and is insta-famous! The only thing better than a visit to Kynance is a visit to Kynance in every season.
Another thing London does really well is markets. Any given day there are a number of quality markets to choose from. Each better than any I’ve been to in the States. The next spot on my list actually made the list twice. So nice, I had to add it twice? Nah, I’m fairly certain I forgot it was already on so added it again. So what is this most memorable of locations? Camden Market, of course! Not only had I never been to the market, but I hadn’t visited Camden, the neighborhood, before this trip. Was I in for a treat!
The irony in all this is that, it actually is an extremely memorable and noteworthy location. It’s a crazy, whirlwind of wonder, creativity and joy stuffed into a corner of Camden along Regent’s Canal that was formerly a stables and horse hospital. Oh, and I visited twice on this trip – I’d say we found a winner.
Open daily, the market is home to a fun, eclectic mix of vendors of food, drinks and the most interesting array of merchandise running the gamut from gothic giftware to Cuban cigars. This spot is highly recommended for anyone who enjoys eating, drinking and shopping…not so much for people with an aversion to crowds. Apparently, a vagina museum is opening soon so I’m pretty sure I know what we’ll all be doing in 2020.
I fell in love with the next spot upon first sight. My first sight was about 2 and a half years ago when a friend sent me a picture of the movie theatre he was in. I’m fairly certain I heard angelic voices burst into song at that very moment. Well, it only took me 2 plus years but I finally made it to Electric Cinema in Notting Hill. I have two words for you – worth it. As a film lover, I don’t know how to properly convey the depths of my feelings for this spot. Suffice to say, if I lived nearby, I’d be the Norm of Electric Cinema*.
Places like this have started to pop up in the States but they’re certainly more common across the pond. Honestly, I’ve yet to see a spot quite like this here. Complete with your choice of red leather chairs with ottomans, sofas for two or plush velvet beds (yes, beds), it looks plucked from another era – quite like the city it inhabits. There’s a full bar with food menu, individual end tables with lamps for your snacks and blankets to keep you warm. All this to ensure that when the curtain opens and the movie starts, you’re in want of absolutely nothing. I implore you to pick a flick and see for yourself though. As for me, I saw the most quintessentially English film – Downton Abbey.
If you’ve followed me for awhile, by now you know I love my morning coffee. I have a regular in London which I love to bits. But, hey, I’m not some fuddy-duddy stuck in her ways. I too like to change things up now and then, especially when there’s an added bonus to doing so. When I was scrolling through instagram one day and saw a post from Good Boy Coffee with an adorable dog in it, I knew where my destiny lay. Because, there is no universe in which coffee + dogs ever equals anything bad. Hence the name of the shop – which was named after a real-life Shiba Inu.
Good Boy is in a prime location, situated on a corner across from Chiswick Common. It’s a short walk to the Turnham Green tube stop on the District Line. Perfect for commuters and locals taking their own good boys for walks in the park. I made a much needed coffee pit stop on my way to the Royal Botanic Gardens in Kew. Sadly, I didn’t see any puppies but I did enjoy a wonderful oat cappuccino with chocolate sprinkled on top…when in London, always go with chocolate sprinkled on top.
There’s nothing like a good bookstore. Luckily, London is full of them. They’re old, creaky and piled high with books upon books. One in particular is part of the book shop subset of my list – none other than Daunt Books. So Daunt itself isn’t that old, having been established in 1990 but it’s housed on the premises of a bookseller in business since the turn of the 20th century. It’s since expanded but I visited the original on Marylebone High Street.
The minute you walk through the doors of the Edwardian structure, you’re greeted by a hall lined with books terminating in a gorgeous stained glass window. Sky lights fill the space with brightness as you make your way down the hall. In the back, the books are arranged by country – all the British Isles get the upper level while street level is Europe and the lower level is the rest of the world. I left the store a little lighter in the pocket but definitely richer for the experience…and with little treasures to take home with me. Included in my loot is the famous Daunt Books tote which was thrown in with my purchase and I proudly displayed throughout London.
Care for a pint? I certainly could go for one. So, let’s head over to my next spot – Mr. Fogg’s Tavern. Full disclosure, I had Mr. Fogg’s on the list but didn’t specify which location. With six completely different locales in their “collection,” it’s difficult to choose really. You all know what that means? Five more trips to Mr. Fogg’s establishments are in my future. They’re all themed around the protagonist of Jules Verne’s Around the World in 80 Days and are fittingly decked out in Victorian-style splendor. On this particular day, I was in the mood for a tavern so off I went.
Upon first glance, one may think it’s just kitsch but don’t sell Mr. Fogg’s short, there’s substance there as well. In the heart of the West End theatres, this pub is a treat. The corner exterior is bedecked in flowers with patrons lingering outside chatting with drinks in hand. The interior is no less festive with Union Jack bunting hanging from the ceiling and memorabilia such as knick-knacks and taxidermy filling the cosy space. Despite the Gin Parlour residing on the floor above, the Tavern has quite an extensive list of libations. Their ales are the real stars of the show though! So, if you find yourself in the heart of London, pop in, pull up a stool and give the ales a go.
I made it just under the wire for our next stop. I visited Applebees Fish Pop-Up on South Bank one day before they closed shop for the season. I had read about it on Londonist back in the spring and it immediately lured me in with fairy lights and talk of oysters and bubbly. You may know, I love spending time on South Bank so no arm twisting was required for this particular one. The area is so full of life – and wonderful food and drinks – that it inspires joy in me. My verdict – I have to say, this was a welcome addition to an already vibrant food scene.
If you’re lamenting not getting out to try this for yourself…and I do recommend you do that, have no fear, I have great news – while writing this, it was announced that Applebees Fish have a winter pop-up coming soon along Queen’s Walk. The Winter Pagoda will be open from November to January and I expect you’ll have visions of delicious merriment dancing in your head in anticipation. Think fish and chips, mussels, mulled wine in a cosy, festive space…what more do you need? Maybe a coat…it can get cold near the water.
Our final spot is a bonus really. It never made it to the physical list but it’s been on the list in my head for years. Every year I park myself in West London near the Hammersmith Bridge and every year I say to myself, “I should walk across that bridge one day.” Well, this past September was my “one day” – finally! I have a rather fond attachment to this bridge. It was after all this structure that was the impetus for me renting a place in Hammersmith all those years ago. I was watching the movie Sliding Doors, I saw the bridge and I wanted to be near it…simple as that. Once there, I fell in love and who wouldn’t? The rest, as they say, is history.
The Hammersmith Bridge really is a stunning remnant of Victorian times, especially when the setting – or rising but who am I kidding, I’m never up that early – sun hits it just right. I spent many a night on this last trip on the banks of the Thames, gazing at this bridge with a glass of wine in my hand. These nights may be what I miss most about London and that’s saying a lot. The bridge is currently closed to motor vehicles for much needed repairs. By the end, it should be restored to its former glory, which will be a real treat. The great thing – you can still walk, run or bike across it! I bet you’re all dying to know what greeted me on the other side. The beautiful, leafy Borough of Richmond upon Thames and a charming corner pub. Oh, London, you always enchant me so.
On that note, I’m busy adding more enchanting London spots to my coveted list. I’d love to know if you all have been to any of these spots. If you have, let me know what you think! If you haven’t but would love to, you won’t get any argument from me, I strongly encourage you to check them out for yourselves. Whether you agree with me or not, I’d love to chat.
Until next time – happy travels. Cheers!
*Norm of Electric Cinema – American pop culture reference meaning to be a regular to the point where everybody would know my name, like Norm on the show Cheers
Adventures of a New Yorker traveling the world.
Adventures of a New Yorker traveling the world.
