I returned from Spain about 3 weeks ago. While there, I feverishly wrote down thoughts and blurbs of moments I’ve just been bursting to share. I didn’t, however, expect Sevilla to be the first subject I wrote about. As I sat at my computer, my mind kept returning to that magical day. Sevilla just has an effect on you though – it pulls you in, makes you forget about everything else…momentarily at least.
Nothing about my trip to Spain was really planned out. I booked airfare to Madrid on a whim, found an Airbnb based on a friend’s recommendation and then basically winged it the rest of the trip. Sure, several friends armed me with things to see, places to go, restaurants to try, which I’m grateful for, but I booked no tickets and made no reservations. Every aspect of my trip was truly an adventure.
Which brings me to the most memorable part – Sevilla. Before I left New York, I knew I wanted to work in a day trip to another city in my brief time in Spain. But where to go? I’ve had my eye on Barcelona and Granada for ages, so those were definitely in the running. After asking several friends’ advice, I had it narrowed down with Sevilla landing at the top. Once I got to Madrid though, I was eager to explore and suddenly not quite sure if I wanted to venture out of the capital city at all.
As I was traveling solo, this was a battle I was going to have to fight with myself. While I was busy having it out, Friday turned to Saturday. Sunday turned cold and rainy – not a great day to explore a new city, so I nestled myself into a cup of hot chocolate. Procrastination in its purest form was wreaking havoc with my vacation. Then Sunday afternoon rolled around and the brain fog lifted. I found myself booking a train ticket to Sevilla for Monday morning. While the idea of waking at 6am didn’t thrill me, the prospect of exploring a new place filled me with renewed vim and vigor.
I’ve always had a rather romantic notion of train travel. Through the years and the many trips I’ve taken via the rails, it’s a feeling that has never been extinguished. I’d say it’s stronger than ever actually. To me, there’s nothing better than watching the European countryside whiz by – it’s both thrilling and peaceful at the same time. If such a thing were possible. It makes me feel like I’m getting a glimpse into the past. So, any chance I get to travel this way, I happily take. And so begins my story…
A DAY IN SEVILLA
Monday morning, once the initial annoyance of waking up so early on my vacation wears off and I make it to the train station with room to spare, I’m positively giddy. Which, I’m sure, has nothing to do with the cappuccino I downed before going through security and the second grande cappuccino in my hand as I wait for my train. I board the train, find my seat and wonder what magical discoveries I’ll find out my window along the way.
Gazing out the window, the train lulls me into a state of drowsiness. I’m thankful for my solo seat. By the time the train nears my destination, I’m eager for a little fresh air. As I exit the train and make my way toward the heart of the city, I take in my surroundings. A large metal Christmas tree in the train station parking lot, motorways, industrial businesses…and I’m wondering what all the fuss was about. There has to be more than this. Undeterred, I continue on. My first stop, the crowning jewel – Plaza de España.
After walking for a bit, beautifully colored stucco architecture and little streets with restaurants come in to view. I’m feeling better already. It’s a gorgeous sunny November day and people are spilling out of cafes onto sidewalk tables. The scenes of the city and the sunshine on my face charm me. I stop at a cafe for a quick bite to eat and almost feel spoiled partaking in alfresco dining in mid-November. New York seems a million miles away.
As the park comes into view, I know I’ve reached the home stretch…and then it hits me like a thunderbolt and stops me dead in my tracks. Plaza de España in all its glory. Now, I’ve seen my fair share of Piazzas, Squares, Platz, Plazas but I’ve never seen anything like this. This is one of the most beautiful, unique and special places in all of Europe – I understand now.
As I walk through admiring the tilework and intricacies of the architecture, people in little boats drift by, horse and carriages circle through and music rings out. It’s like I’ve entered another dimension – one that’s brought me to a magical land from a bygone era. Once I reach the center of the semi-circle, I see the source of the music. A small band plays on the terrace while flamenco dancers float around them. The vibe is relaxed, much like the lazy river running through the plaza, despite the hoards of people. A crowd gathers round transfixed by the dancers staccato movements.
The desire to stay in the park is strong. It seems I have all the time in the world and it’s such a freeing feeling. Eventually, I pry myself away knowing there’s more waiting for me out there. Sevilla is mine for the taking…for a day anyway. Lazily, I wander the narrow, winding streets in awe of the beauty – even the most fervent admirer of the city could not prepare me for this. Every now and then I pop into a passing shop.
As it nears mid-day, I decide to hasten my steps. Siesta is approaching and I need to get a meal in before most places close up. Since I won’t be sticking around until the restaurants reopen for dinner, this is my main meal of the day. I already have a place picked out – recommended by a friend – which helps keep my eye on the prize. Still I take note of shops and streets to hit on my way back.
It’s a bit of a trek outside the tourist area but the promise of good food pushes me onward. Before I know it, I’m nestled in Duo Tapas with a glass of Rioja, a plate of olives and not a care in the world. My biggest problem is deciding between the amazing tapas dishes on the menu – so, right, no problems at all. Having just passed an Indian restaurant along the way, the idea of a curry is appealing. So I go with that, and patatas of course, which I linger over. I top it all off the only way I see fit – with a nice sherry.
Busting with food and tapas, I decide to be on my way and shed a little extra weight…in my wallet. I head back the way I came – the shops I left behind are calling to me. But, I have a particular purchase in mind – Christmas ornaments. I’d like to add to my collection, have a little yearly reminder of my travels. Also, ornaments are a great souvenir and, in my case, timely. I hit snags though…more than you’d expect in late November. I go from shop to shop to no avail.
In my desperation, the touristy shops lure me in but theirs are all so cheap looking. The baubles aren’t even glass! I notice this as a recurring theme. Just as I’m deciding to continue my search in Madrid the next day, something catches my eye – mosaic figures hanging from a little tree, they’re all hand-crafted and painted in Spain. I can’t decide which I like best so I grab 4 of the 5, leaving poor ol’ Santa behind.
Once back on the streets, a celebratory drink is in order. A sign in an alley near Plaza de San Francisco grabs my attention – Aperol Spritz. Oh, how refreshing and a nice change from all the wine. The alley is filled with outdoor tables. Even with the sun beginning to wane, the weather is mild and beautiful. Sitting inside is unthinkable. Two gentlemen sitting at a table next to me offer me a cigarette, in Spanish. I wonder if I blend. I politely refuse in my mangled Spanglish.
As I sit enjoying the warmth on my face and the cool spritz on my tongue, I hear the familiar strains of an accordian. Wafting through the air is the music from the movie Amelie. It’s a score I’d know anywhere and someone in a cafe nearby is indulging me my little European fantasy. It seems surreal to me – for the last few mornings I’ve played this very score while getting ready for the day. Listening to it always puts a smile on my face and, even though I was in Spain and not France, it just felt right. Now, here it is again. I’m almost brought to tears. It’s at this very moment that I realize – this may be the best last minute train ticket I’ve ever booked.
I’m glued to my seat, reluctant to leave the moment and the music behind. But, my hours are dwindling and there are a few things I want to do, so leave I must. By now, the sun’s nearly set and the city is washed in the ambient glow of the lights from the businesses lining the streets. I make my way to Setas de Sevilla, because I can’t leave without seeing the largest wooden structure in the world, then head down cobblestone alleys, stopping frequently to marvel at the unmatched beauty around every corner.
I’ve already decided that I’ll end my night at Cafe Bar El Comercio – also recommended by a friend – so I slowly head in that direction. When I arrive it’s love at first sight – a charming little tapas bar with the doors thrown wide open welcoming everyone in, two stools pulled up to the “L” shaped bar sit outside the restaurant looking in through an open window and a lovely dining area sits in the back. I can’t think of a better way to end my day in Sevilla.
I sidle up to the bar, order a glass of red wine which, of course, is served with a little dish of peanuts, as everything in Spain is served with a little dish of something, and take in the life around me. The gentleman next to me with his churros con chocolate, the locals chatting to the bartender and behind me, a waiter putting up Christmas decorations. And I thought this day couldn’t get any better. Since I’ve got time before I head to the train station and I have no desire to leave my little piece of paradise, I order a warm chorizo picante sandwich and savor every bit of it while I watch the garland hung with care.
When the time comes to leave, it’s bittersweet. I’ve just had the most amazing day so it’s tough to stay sad for long. My journey back to the train station takes me through endless streets dotted with cozy restaurants, cafes and shops…if only I had more time. I stop to take pictures of the more noteworthy, I’ll need to find these gems when I return one day. I haven’t even left and already I’m thinking of my next visit. Back at the train station, there’s just enough time to spare to pop in to a novelty shop. Filled with the joys of my day, I make an impulse buy – a lumbar pillow shaped like a cat. Cute and functional, that’s a win.
On the train back to Madrid, I sleepily bask in the glory of the day. To my left, a phone rings. The chorus to Bruce Springsteen’s “Born in the USA” plays and I crane my neck to find the source. Is it a fellow American? I have trouble pinpointing an exact location when suddenly a gentlemen answers in what sounds to me like perfect Spanish. It’s too good to be true, I can’t help but laugh. I whip out my notebook and write this little nugget down while I wonder if he really was born in the USA. I decide it’s best I not know…keeps an air of mystery. I sit back and close my eyes, content, a perfect end to a perfect day.
SEVILLA, TE AMO
So, here I am back from Sevilla nearly a month and it’s still with me. I can say without a doubt, Sevilla is high up there as one of the best places I’ve ever been because it’s unlike any other. The pace of life is so relaxed, the people so welcoming, it’s like being embraced in a warm hug. Everything is lingered over and savored – because really, what’s the rush? Being there, you really get the sense that they have the right idea on how to enjoy life. You can listen to people yammer on about it for days but it’s a place you need to experience for yourself to truly understand.
I learned a lot about myself during this trip to Spain. First, I am perfectly capable of traveling in and across a country where I don’t speak the language solo. Which I kind of knew but it’s nice to have it confirmed. As much as I vacillate back and forth, I never, ever regret taking that little day trip. And, maybe the most valuable lesson – some of the best experiences in life are when you stop planning and just live in the moment. Because, you know what, all those churches, castles and museums will be there next time.
I hope you all have fun exploring. Cheers!
Adventures of a New Yorker traveling the world.
Adventures of a New Yorker traveling the world.
